Made an attempt on the SE face route today with fellow guide and friend
P.Hungr. We found up to 35cm of windpressed snow 2500m and above. We
traveled up the lower slopes below the couloir and easily crossed the
multiple schrunds before turning around at 0830. Large cornices still
threaten the SE face and things were warming up too quickly for our
liking.
No melt freeze apparant. Crevasses still well covered, no sagging.
If the warm forecast holds true for the next few days, I would not want to be on this route.
Kristopher Irwin
A.C.M.G. Assistant Alpine Guide
Banff, Alberta
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_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The
ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in
continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable
nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information
provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions
Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
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