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ACMG Mountain Conditions Report Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued July 08, 2010
Today was hot everywhere in the Rocky and Columbia mountains and it looks like these temperatures will persist through the weekend.
The last few hot days have melted a lot of snow in the alpine but, very winter like conditions persist on the high peaks. The hot temperatures have created numerous hazards on most aspects with many wet snow avalanches and cornices failures occurring by mid morning on East and South aspects and persisting into the afternoon on the West faces. Along with the heat and snow melt also comes a significant amount of rockfall as the mountains shed their winter coat.
All that said, conditions are very good on lots of routes and improving very fast on others. West and North facing snow and ice routes are getting good freezes overnight but only last until mid day before becoming soft while East and South facing routes haven't been freezing very well and are wet, deep trail breaking by early in the AM.
Yam, EEOR, Louis, Castle...are mostly dry and seeing lots of ascents and, with early starts, Aberdeen, Lefroy, Athabasca and many peaks on the Wapta are also getting some attention.
The Bugaboos are slowly drying out and many of the West and South facing routes are seeing traffic including the West Ridge of Pigeon and the Kain Route on Bugaboos Spire. Routes like the NE Ridge of Bugaboo and Becky-Chouinard will need a fair bit more hot weather. In Rogers Pass, west ridge of Tupper and Macdonald have seen some ascents but it sounds like Sir Donald and Uto still need some more hot days to dry them out.
Have a great weekend.
Marc Piché
ACMG Mountain Guide
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These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted
them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors,
omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time
and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain.
Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety.
Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning
trips or making decisions in the field. Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
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_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The
ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in
continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable
nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information
provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions
Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
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