I just
got out from 4 days up at the Lyell Hut and climbing the Lyell Peaks. There was
up to 40cm of new snow on the storm that ended Monday. The warm temperatures
have settled the snow rapidly. There were quite a few wet snow avalanches on
Tuesday from solar aspects. The warm temperatures have prevented a good freeze.
The crust was supporting in the morning above 3000m; below it was boot top post
holing. Once the sun hit the crust deteriorated rapidly. Yesterday climbed the
northe ridge of Walter (Lyell 4) and descend the South ridge. Excellent
conditions with firm snow on the ridge, we were back at the hut by 11
am. The crux rock pitch is dry with a snow bulge to exit at the top.
There are some large cornices on the ridge and I wouldn't want to be there any
later in the day.
We saw tracks going up the north glacier on Mt Forbes. They appear to just stop
part way up the glacier but that may just be were the post holing ended.
Larry Dolecki
Mountain Guide
www.icefall.ca
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