Just back from 4 days in the Bugaboos and Kain hut area. Overall
snowpack seems average for mid July. Patchy snows in the moraines just above
the hut and more or less continuous snow cover just a bit higher than the
Applebee elevation. The Applebee camp site is mostly free of snow and as of
July 18 the food bins and hanging racks were not completely installed. Numerous
cornice releases were noted on north aspects above 2500m and they did not
trigger any deeper releases on the slopes below. Pretty much all of the “usual”
routes are getting climbed despite a bit of snow here and there but not really
hampering progress. Glacier travel was quite good with well bridged crevasses
and about 5cm of boot penetration. Crampons would be useful on the mornings of
a freeze however we did not use them over 4 days of travel Bugaboo/Snowpatch
col is in good shape and several crevasses are just beginning to be visible although
at this stage are well bridged. West Ridge of Pigeon is mostly dry with some snow
near the final summit; for our group we did not require crampons. The South and
Central Howsers still have large cornices; nothing
exceptional for this time of year but something to consider on the descents of the
Becky Chouinard etc.
Happy Climbing
James Blench ACMG/UIAGM
James Blench
www.jamesblench.ca
(403)678-2576 home
(403) 678-7822 cell
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These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The
ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in
continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable
nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information
provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions
Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
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