Athabasca and Victoria.
Thursday, Athabasca, North Face Bypass. Very good
conditions with storm snow settling and ice face in good snow ice
conditions. Scottish gully in easy condition. Summit ridge more
challenging than usual with up to 30 cm of snow over rock steps and fresh
cornices. Descent by AA is mostly snow. Crevasses on AA glacier
thinly bridged by storm snow. Ramp route looked loaded and not very
inviting. Clear but cold and windy up high.
Today, climbed Victoria via Huber ledges and down to Abbott
Pass. Route was in excellent condition and should remain that way as long
as it stays cold and dry. The ledges are clear of snow. Huber
glacier is well covered; Schrund is easy to cross and it is mostly good snow
travel up to the ridge. Along the ridge, the snow coverage has made all
of the usually scrappy bits of gravel more straightforward with generally firm snow
walking. It was +9 at Ohara at 4 AM but wintry on the Victoria ridge with
light precip with the passing of cells.
Marc Ledwidge
UIAGM