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Climbed A2 today via the right tongue of the Boundary Glacier. There is about 35 cm of snow from the snowfalls of the last few weeks and this overlies glacier ice up to about 2700m. Above that this new snow overlies the old neve. There is no strength to the surface snow so probing was required for virtually every step to ensure we didn't fall into a crevasse.
Other parties in the area climbed the left ice tongue of the Boundary Glacier yesterday and the AA Col route on Athabasca today. They reported similar conditions.
All these areas were sheltered from the strong winds that have been raking the high peaks the past few days. We were all avoiding areas where there would be wind loading, such as any of the routes on the north side of Athabasca. There is a history of avalanche accidents in the Rockies during the first fall snowstorms so if you are getting out there keep your head up. Mark Klassen Mountain Guide www.alpinism.com
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These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The
ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in
continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable
nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information
provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions
Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
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