[MCR] Bass Buttress, Castle Mountain, Banff area

Subject: [MCR] Bass Buttress, Castle Mountain, Banff area
Date: Tue, 28 Sep 2010 09:50:50 -0600
Climbed Bass Buttress yesterday.  The route is slightly more involved than 
Brewer's as all of the belays must be built, or at least require reinforcement. 
 The route is generally dry, with the exception of the last pitch, which is wet 
and slippery with snow melt.  There are some "aider" slings in place at the top 
of the route.  The top of castle has snow patches up to 30cm deep and is quite 
muddy in places-- a pair of gaiters would be useful for the descent.  Lots of 
water in the gullies at the moment and we heard periodic rockfall throughout 
the day.

Note that the proper descent for the castle routes has several cairns at the 
top and initially involves walking down scree on faint trails for a fair way.  
Rappel stations are in place, lower down, on the west (skiers right) wall and 
are generally marked by cairns.  It is one gully to the west of the (much 
steeper) gully directly above the hut approach.
---
Josh Briggs
ACMG Ski & Asst. Alpine Guide




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