[MCR] "The Fold", Mt Kidd

Climbed "The Fold" on Mt Kidd yesterday.  It is an excellent route and is in great shape, highly recommended! 

 

In terms of route finding...we gained the ridge in one pitch from the left side, starting about 20m above a very short rock step in the approach gully left of the ridge.  Next time I would scramble up to the ridge directly and and follow it up.  From here we stayed more or less on the crest of the ridge until the final 2-3 pitches.  These start where the gully to the right of the ridge pinches off.  From here we ventured right for about 5m (bypassing a blank yellow wall) then back to the ridge and up a crack near the crest to a ledge (55m).  Then we stayed about 10-15m right of the ridge until  below the last short yellow wall (52m).  Finally up the steep yellow flakes to the top (10m) belaying way back on the rap station.  These last couple pitches are quite run out but are on good rock and many variations are possible. 

 

Good fun climbing with only a few fixed pins on the route.  We took a rack from #0.3 - 3.0 Camelots, with doubles from the 0.4-1.0, and a full set of nuts.  We did not need any pitons but a hammer was nice for checking the fixed pins, especially on the final couple pitches, and you may want a few pins just in case.

 

The descent can be done in two raps (25m and 50m) with double ropes, or three raps with a single 70m, but you have to use the hanging station ~12m below the 2nd rap station.  

 

A good adventure on great rock, with warm sunshine and fall colors.  The perfect September day! 
 

Cheers, Conrad Janzen
ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide
www.conradjanzenguiding.com 

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