Climbed the West ridge on Fay via the Perren Route on the 29 & 30th.
There were significant patches of verglas on the lower Perren where the sun doesn’t
reach. Ice smears were forming and falling off above and to the right of the
chains on the Perren. Travel on the Fay glacier was excellent with a very supportive
rime crust from the 9/27 precipitation event. Crevasses seemed well bridged. The
west ridge had significant covering of Styrofoam snow on it which really did
not hamper travel much and glued the rubble in nicely; we used crampons all the
way. The Fay ice routes all looked good as did the gulleys on the E face of Mt
Little. There was significant old avalanche debris up to size 2.5 from almost
every major gulley feature on Fay and Little and I saw no evidence of snow
instabilities in the immediate area. Viewed from afar the long ice gulley on
Ringrose (Condgon/McNab) looked to be “in”.
James Blench
James Blench
www.jamesblench.ca
(403)678-2576 home
(403) 678-7822 cell
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These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The
ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in
continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable
nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information
provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions
Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
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