[MCR] Aberdeen Conditions

Climbed Aberdeen via North Glacier on Oct 14. Lower ice was really hard and boney as was expected which made for challenging climbing on low angle ice. After the big glacial bench we encountered excellent snow conditions with great travel on the Sept 28 rain/rime crust which was about 8-10cm thick. Crevasses were either obvious or well bridged. FYI: a better descent description than Selected Alpine Climbs would read: From the summit descend SW along the ridge for about 800 ft to a small col at 9500 ft. Turn SW into the obvious big scree filled gully to Paradise Valley.

 

Numerous ice smear were forming up high in the Hadoo/Aberdeen basin with one climbable Grade IVish line to the right of the Aberdeen Glacier

 

Of course things will have changed with today’s snowfalls

 

Happy Hunting

James

 

James Blench

www.jamesblench.ca

(403)678-2576 home

(403) 678-7822 cell

 

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