Spent a cold blustery day on Humble Horse Sunday. Lower glacier
approach ramp holding pockets of snow to 60cm, making travel slow and
time to seriously think about avalanche conditions. The 'schrund was
well filled in by a large avalanche about 3 weeks old. The first two
mixed pitches climbed well on snow covered rock. The glacier 55 deg
ice above leading to the WI 3/4 pitch is melted away to ugly scree.
The WI 3/4 pitch is extremely thin taking 16cm screws on the lower angle
bottom and 10cm above on the steeper ground. Between spin drift,
random rock fall and the next mixed pitches looking too thin for any
protection we rappelled from here. Descent was interesting as there
was very few spots with enough ice for v-threds and the rock is very
broken and falling apart. In my opinion the route is not in.
James Madden (ARG, ASG)
Adam Burrell (WG) |
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These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The
ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in
continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable
nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information
provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions
Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
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