Climbed Coire Dubh today in increasingly warm and windy conditions.
The ice itself is in great shape, although a tad brittle at times. The main issue on the climb right now is the hard wind slabs between the pitchs of ice climbing. These slabs overlie a weak base of facets and careful evaluation of avalanche conditions is required to pass through these sections. It would be very concerning to have a party above you on the route, as even a small slide will funnel straight down the climb.
As temperatures warm up over the next few days, this climb may not be a good choice. Rockfall will certainly increase (as the surrounding bowl has a light dusting of snowfall lingering) and the possibility for slab avalanches could increase.
Have fun out there and Happy Holidays!
Jeremy Mackenzie
ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide
Kananaskis Country Public Safety
|
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The
ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in
continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable
nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information
provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions
Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
|