We climbed Glenmorangie today, March 7th. It's a great route and in
good shape right now. A good trail leads to the climb from the Yoho
Vally parking lot.
Like other parties we traversed right about 10 meters from the top of
the right hand, grade 3, approach to Twisted. A prominent dihedral
there leads via some mixed and thin ice to the continuous ice
systems. This first pitch (65 meters) protected well with a set of
Black Diamond Camalots .4 - 4 and ice screws (13 cm and 16 cm).
The second pitch was started from and ice balcony at the bottom right
side of the steep upper ice. We took the steepest, crux, section on
the far left against the rock. A gear search granted 3 nuts, 1
knifeblade piton, and a 10 cm screw (It may be more straight forward
to climb this pitch via the pillar on the right side).
We descended the route in two rappels from abalakovs.
Happy trails,
Barry Blanchard
Mountain Guide
www.barryblanchard.ca
www.yamnuska.com
Twisted (left) and Glenmorangie (right), March 7/11
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