Up to the Weeping Wall yesterday after deciding there was too much new snow for
the Trophy Wall.
The entire wall is feeling the effects of the powerful Spring sun and an early
start is required.
We went up the Center line and a good amount of cleaning was needed to find
solid protection. Long screws were nice to have. Lots of features for the
feet but the climbing was at the guidebook grade.
Of note were the large (fridge size) chunks of blue ice that covered the entire
left side of the base of the wall.
All of the normal belay spots for the first pitches of Sniveling, Left Hand and
the Center line were obliterated. The culprit looked to be the sun and broken
daggers from high up on the left side of the wall.
More and more rock is getting exposed on sunny days. It was worth it for us
to plan our line from the road in order to minimize the hazard climbing,
standing or belaying with something fragile above us.
Have fun!
Mike Stuart
ACMG Alpine/Assistant Ski Guide
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The
ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in
continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable
nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information
provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions
Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
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