Climbed Polar Circus and Rt hand Weeping Wall yesterday with fellow guide Mike
Verwey.
It was only -2C when we left the car at 0700 for Polar Circus ( a bit warm for
my liking) but with sufficient cloud cover we made the dash. We were off the
route before the sun came out and the solar impact took hold. There have been a
few wet slides on the approach slopes but the middle bowl still has a winter
snow pack and I would stay away from this route on sunny and/or warm days.
There was also evidence of new snow being loaded above the route so again,
avoid warm sunny days as this new snow could get moving very easily. The
cornices that often form on the side walls above the upper part of the route
are present but smaller than most years. All in all the route is in great shape
and hasn't had much sun effect yet.
Rt hand Weeping Wall is coated in a layer of sun baked ice but still very
climbable albeit to get good protection one has to clean a fair amount of ice.
An early start is also wise as there are features of ice in the center of the
wall and to the right that will start pealing with the heat of the afternoon
spring sun. The Upper Wall appears to be in good climbing shape but will
deteriorate rapidly with a few more warm days.
Rob Owens
ACMG MG
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The
ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in
continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable
nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information
provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions
Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
|