Climbed Mt Athabasca via Silverhorn yesterday to assess conditions.
Overall the travel conditions are decent, with the snowline down to about
2300m. The travel was good on the way up the glacier with a nice
supportive frozen crust at 5am. The lower 2/3rds of the Silverhorn route
itself had a lot of sugary snow (facets) that looked good but had us
working our front points into the ice below for purchase. The top third of
the route had about 20 - 30cm of more supportive snow that made for easy
step kicking.
Of note was a size 1.5 avalanche that was triggered on June 5 by a climbing
party at the start of the route that slid into a group below. There were
no reported injuries, although it was enough for the involved party to turn
around.
The summit ridge was in excellent shape at 10am. We descended via the ramp
("Normal" route) at 1045 and the snow was getting mushy and unsupportive.
This is an awkward piece of terrain with hazard above and below and should
be carefully evaluated before being used as a descent. We wouldn't have
wanted to be there any later. The AA col descent is a good option.
The N face looked very good, with snow right to the crux.
Max Darrah - Alpine Guide
Visitor Safety | Sécurité Publique
Jasper National Park of Canada | Parc national du Canada Jasper
Parks Canada | Parcs Canada
P.O. Box 10, Jasper AB T0E 1E0 | C.P. 10, Jasper (Alberta) T0E 1E0
Max.Darrah@xxxxxxxx
Telephone | Téléphone 780-852-6289
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www.pc.gc.ca/jasper
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_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The
ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in
continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable
nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information
provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions
Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
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