| Took a run up the face last night. Although there are still a few small seeps in the upper half, it's nothing that changes the hazard or grade, so the route was in good shape. Took advantage of the late hour to do a bunch of cleaning on the way, but the unusually long winter definitely did some damage up there and there's still plenty of early season rockfall hazard to be managed in the upper half.
There is still snow in the saddle and in the front-side bowl, so a safe short-roping descent that way is still not an option. However, the backside trail is totally dry and still sticky and soft enough to be knee friendly.
Carl Johnston RG, AAG
On 23-Jun-11, at 12:38 PM, Public Mountain Conditions Report wrote: ![]()
ACMG Mountain Conditions Report Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued June 23, 2011 Now that summer is officially here it looks like spring has finally started. It is still very snowy in the Rocky and Columbia Mountains.
ROCKIES
Snow patches remain below treeline and on the moraines in many areas. Travel in those zones is variable, where it is deep one stays on top, where it is shallow expect knee to thigh deep post-holing.
Once on the glaciers things improve and ankle deep foot penetration seems to be the norm, making for reasonably easy travel.
COLUMBIAS
Very little information coming from the west. What we do know is that there is more snow there than in the Rockies and a group was still skiing in the Bugaboos recently. There is a significant amount of snow on the spires themselves. The parking area for the Bugs is inaccessible due to 1 m of old avalanche debris on the access road a short ways before the trailhead. Expect windfall, avalanche debris and snow on the trail. The Kain Hut will be opened on June 28 and trail maintenance will be done at that time as well.
No recent information from Rogers Pass but snow will remain on the approaches and the routes there.
HAZARDS
No surprises here: wet snow avalanches, cornice falls, rockfall, weak crevasse bridges and high stream levels can be expected at any time when temperatures are above freezing. With only 6 hours of darkness at this time of year overnight recovery is usually minimal. Get up early, move fast and keep thinking about what is above your head and below your feet.
WHERE TO GO
There are plenty of objectives to keep us busy right now but unless you're after low elevation rock climbing the Rockies are probably the place to be.
Rock routes below treeline are mostly good to go in all zones and rock climbers are now edging into upper elevations. Alpine rock like Brewer's Buttress and Grassi Ridge are climbable but expect to encounter snow at some point on the way up or down. More shaded and/or slabby routes are still snowy or wet and I have not heard of anyone climbing Ha-Ling or Joy. Louis has snow patches above the various routes, which leads me to suspect rockfall may still be a problem there. There are wet streaks on EEOR.
Classic mountaineering is in typical early summer conditions with approaches and descents snow covered and easy on the knees. I'm staying away from cornices, steep slopes that haven't seen a lot of avalanche activity already and snow covered cliffs that will spit rocks. Climbers have been active in the Columbia and Wapta Icefields: Athabasca and Andromeda via the AA Col, A2, Gordon and Rhondda were climbed this week.
Mark Klassen
Mountain Guide
| ![]() | ![]() | ![]() | These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field. Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information. | _______________________________________________ These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field. |
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The
ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in
continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable
nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information
provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions
Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
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