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I guided a traverse of Haddo Peak, up the East Ridge and down the Aberdeen Glacier, today, July 10. Amazingly the ice climb, "The Tease" is still clinging to the side of Sheol Mountain! There are a couple of snow patches to walk through just before Saddle Pass. Several snow gullies to traverse on the trail into Surprise Valley. We saw bear tracks there from yesterday, looked like a sow and two cubs. A light overnight freeze granted good step kicking towards the Sheol/Haddo col, we moved together the whole way save for one 5 meter icey patch. There are still some large cornices clinging to the East Ridge of Haddo Peak. We turned the summit pillar via the normal exit gully 15 meters to the south. The gully was a low end mixed climb today (M1?) that even offered some good screw placements.
Descent via the Aberdeen Glacier: the bergshrund is opening up but still easily passable. Good coverage on the glacier and the steep part of the ice tongue is snow free. We rappelled it off of Abalakovs. A lot of snow bordering the ice tongue, that made for quick plunge stepping into the lower valley. A great trip today.
Happy trails, Barry Blanchard Mountain Guide www.barryblanchard.ca www.yamnuska.com
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