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ACMG Mountain Conditions Report Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued July 14, 2011
The unsettled summer weather continues with many guides agreeing that conditions are about 2 weeks or more behind average. A number of large avalanches were noted over the past weekend mainly around the Columbia Icefields. This includes a close call avalanche involvement a week ago. For the most part these avalanches appear to be limited to snow from recent storms, but the possibility still exists for a deeper release if we ever see some really hot weather especially on higher elevation north aspects. Temperatures over the past few days have been generally cool in the alpine but there has not been any good melt freeze cycles resulting in, hard, early morning snow conditions. The freezing level last night in the Rockies was around 2800 metres. Without a good freeze, large snow faces should be treated with caution and it will be a good idea to start and finish early. Rock fall has been an issue with the successive rain storms, lingering snow on faces and the occasion
al brief hot spell.
Reports from the Bugaboos are that a number of routes are now climbable such as the Kain route on Bugaboo, the normal route on Snowpatch, and many routes in the Crescent Cirque. North facing routes like the NE Ridge of Bugaboo are likely not in good shape. Expect to deal with some snow and wet areas regardless of where you go. You will also need to deal with creek crossings on the approach trail and snow at Applebee.
At Rogers Pass, it is currently raining but once it clears routes in the Swiss Peaks should be doable. Again expect some snowy sections. The West Face of Sir Donald is drying off but the climbing route itself is still holding snow. The upcoming weather forecast does not show a terribly optimistic outlook. Sir Donald may not be in shape before late July.
In the Rockies, a number of routes around the Columbia Icefields are getting climbed. Pay attention to the amount of new snow transported by the wind by these successive storm events. In Jasper, classics such as the East Ridge of Cavell are very white. The Colin range will have objectives in reasonable condition. Around Lake Louise and Yoho, the high peaks are still snowy. There is winter snow lingering at treeline on the Odaray Plateau. The normal route on Victoria is out but with a good freeze, a rapid early morning ascent of Lefroy should be doable. Technical routes such as the East Ridge of Temple or the Tarrant route on Odaray will not be in shape for at least a week. This could be a summer where Hungabee only comes into shape for a brief period or not at all. The best options remain the main and front ranges.
Marc Ledwidge
Mountain Guide
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These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted
them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors,
omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time
and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain.
Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety.
Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning
trips or making decisions in the field. Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
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_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The
ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in
continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable
nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information
provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions
Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
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