On a climb of the Middle Solitaire Peak (2400 m) today, we found so much
snow that skis would have made sense from 1600 m on. There is no ice
showing on the Solitaire Glacier. Travel was good. The final gully has a
lot of snow in it which makes bypassing the bergschrund a bit awkward as
the rock is wet and snow tongues encroach on it. The gully consisted of
firm snow that allowed kicking steps without crampons. The main ridge
has been socked in since we got here four days ago. I could briefly see
a size 2.5 out of one of the Trident gullies. This may mean that the
access to the N col of Howson still has avalanche issues. There was no
freeze and no new snow at 2400 m, but quite a bit of rain. Both the Hut
Creek and the Burnie River bridges are out, so a bit of wading will wake
you up every morning. I hope to replace those bridges soon.
--
Christoph Dietzfelbinger
IFMGA/ UIAGM Mountain Guide - Bear Mountaineering and the Burnie Glacier Chalet
Qualified Avalanche Planner CAA
Box 4222 Smithers, B.C. V0J 2N0 Canada
tel. 250-847-3351/ fax 250-847-2854
info@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx www.bearmountaineering.ca
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The
ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in
continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable
nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information
provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions
Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
|