[MCR] Bugaboos, July 17-19, 2011

Spent three days in the Bugaboos with some unsettled weather.  Got to within a few pitches of the Gendarme on Bugaboo Spire yesterday before being chased off by some fast moving electrical storms early in the morning.  Good chance to refresh what to do in a lighting storm on a ridge... :(  Spent the afternoon in the Crescent Spires area.

 

Bugaboo-Snowpatch Col is in very good shape.  No ice showing yet and good steps in the snow.  A few cracks starting to indicate the schrunds on the edges and some recent rockfall has come down from the Bugaboo side to remind you not to linger, especially with the recent rains.

 

Was useful to have an ice axe on the lower part of the Kain Route but the snow could be avoided.  NE Ridge of Bugaboo has had traffic and is reported to be in good shape.  Pigeon W Ridge looked to be snow free and climbable.  Some small snow patches on top of Snowpatch Spire but the Snowpatch Route looked fairly dry as did the West Face.  Routes in the Crescent Spires are dry and have nice approaches on snow.

 

Really good snow travel conditions and the glaciers are well filled in for accessing Pigeon via either side.  Good climbing conditions once the weather improves...

 

Cheers, Conrad Janzen
ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide
www.banffmountainguides.com

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