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I guided an ascent of the classic South Ridge of Mt Edith today, July 23rd. It started snowing 1 cm/hour just as we started the first pitch. There is a patch of snow at the base of the route that is easily stepped behind. I climbed all of the 5th class pitches with gloves on and over wet rock. There is a good series of bolt/piton or bolt/bolt anchors up the centre rib/ chimney of the climb (either I missed the first station in the gully or it is at about 70 meters). This is a change from the past when I would step out of the gully to the right to gain balconies for sheltered belays. The rest of the route is snow free, as is the scramble/descent route.
Happy trails, Barry Blanchard Mountain Guide www.barryblanchard.ca www.yamnuska.com
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