Climbed the Chimney route on Morro Peaks SW face a couple of days ago.
Of note was that there are a number of pitons missing both on the
first and second pitch.
On the first pitch found only the one bolt about 35 metres up....
On the second pitch it seems there are at least a a few pins missing
on the lower half of the pitch. I placed one near the start, and
another near the crux (which we had to remove)
Worth taking a few along! (long lost arrows and bugaboos)
right now from the last pin half way up the pitch to the crux section
where there is a really old pin, is about a 15 metre runnout.
Not sure what happened here but you need pins to protect this area.
I know some of the upper pitches had the anchors re-bolted but I
couldn't find any of them on the "line" of the route....
On the upper section of the face, above the trail we climbed 3 more
pitches I loosely call "old School" nice rock but the bolts were put
in by Hans Schwarz about 10 years ago and they are older Euro bolts
with allan key screw ins and I used screamers on all of these. Very
nice rock leads to a treed ramp that heads right and then a short
pitch leads very close to summit...( a bit runnout but some good
horns are found as well.) It is about 5.5 -5.6 for some short
sections. There is a 4th pitch which I have climbed before but it is
kind of rough, has no belay anchor and needs a bit of work..
Peter Amann
Peter Amann
pamann@xxxxxxxxxxxx
old school.jpg
Description: JPEG image
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