|
This week we changed plans from going to the Clemenceau area and went to the Bugaboos instead. We're glad we did, conditions were perfect. We climbed Pigeon, Lion's Way, Bugaboo (Kain), Eastpost, traversed Anniversary/Rock Ridge Peaks and did a Crescent Spire traverse this morning. ~100 climbers in the area meant that everything was getting climbed every day.
Things are still snowy and crampons are being used on the traverse ledge on Pigeon. However, snow conditions are firm and travel to the BS col and on the glaciers is excellent. The warm temperatures mean that more crevasses are opening every day. The Pigeon fork of the Bugaboo Glacier is especially showing a lot of holes. Bergschrunds in the Sextet, Marmolada, Pigeon Feather and Howser Towers zones are large and difficult to bypass. We also noticed several large bergschrund collapses that spilled debris well down onto the glaciers below and there was a large cornice fall onto the east face of the N Howser yesterday.
Other than crevasses/bergschrunds the primary hazard was other climbers above, climbers below us without helmets on, simul-climbers passing multiple parties on easy routes, and traffic jams at constrictions such as the gendarme on Bugaboo. Hard to avoid even with the early starts we were doing but not that big a deal as long as there was a little communication between parties.
Overall a great week of climbing! Mark Klassen Mountain Guide
|