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ACMG Mountain Conditions Report Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued August 13th, 2011
First off-our apologies for the late summary. Too much climbing-not enough reading schedules-a good excuse I think. Conditions at present and for the foreseeable future are as good as they have been all summer. Throughout the Rockies and Columbia Mountains people have been getting after it with in mostly great conditions and with mostly great success.
What is really good!
Rock routes in the Bugaboos are getting rave reviews. The Selkirks routes should be equally good on the big rock ridges and anything south facing. All the Rockies east slope rock routes are basically dry. Steep alpine rock in the Rockies is good as long as there is nothing hanging over your head. As always with the Rockies big rigs, rockfall is a serious concern-especially with an overnight freeze and the first sun of the day.
Glacier travel and snow and ice routes with a good freeze are big and fat for mid-august. See the what's bad section for the scary side of these routes. Low elevation glaciers are melting out so don't leave home without your ice gear.
What is mediocre!
Big moderate rock routes along the divide of both ranges probably still have some big snow patches on them and wet rock. These will tend to slow you down, but equally importantly, these big snow patches can get warm fast due to the heat stored in the rocks. Expect wet snow, avalanches and rockfall to start moving before the big snow slopes start to get weak. Examples of these route would be the East Ridge of Temple, Assiniboine North Ridge and Alberta Japanese route.
Big ridge routes like Victoria SE ridge, Emperor Ridge, North Howser N Ridge would likely have a lot of insecure snow climbing on cornices, knife edges, mushrooms etc. Good "training" for the big ranges but WAY more serious than the "usual" august conditions.
What is bad!
The excellent glacier travel and snow and ice climbing we are currently enjoying is the result of a big snow winter and a damn cool, wet spring, especially above 3000m. The downside of this big snowpack is that the huge cornices, creeping moats and snow on big faces is really feeling the heat stress. Catastrophic failure of any of these big snow features is quite possible, even likely, in the heat of the day. Generally avoid being on or below any big cornices. Big snow faces and moats need to be negotiated as quickly as possible and only when you have a good freeze. Use your axe or a probe to feel the lower snowpack. If it feels like slush, it is slush.
Finally, the melting snow and warm temperatures means rockfall is a big deal. Anywhere the snow is melting and people are walking it is the biggest concern. Places like the bugaboo-snowpatch col are famous for it from both sources. Routes like the A-Strain, Grand Central Couloir-just forget it for awhile. Those big mixed gullies may be awesome come september but for now I would feel vulnerable there in a tank.
Larry Stanier
ACMG Mountain Guide
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These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted
them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors,
omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time
and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain.
Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety.
Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning
trips or making decisions in the field. Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
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_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The
ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in
continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable
nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information
provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions
Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
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