Brian, Pat, Keith and I were fortunate to spend from Aug 8 to 14th in
the Mons-Lyell area. Flew in on Aug 8th to the new Mons Hut. Climbed
Mons Peak on the 9th, Cambrai on the 10th, traversed over Division
Ridge on the 11th to the Lyell Hut, Climbed Christian on the 12th,
Lyell 2 on the 13th and flew out on the 14th.
Conditions were pretty good over all but warmer in the latter part of
the week. Conditions significantly changed above 9500 feet where
there was more snow and travelling became more tedious. Below that
elevation we generally penetrated to boot top, above that mid calf to
near knee in places, especially where Rocky or on ridges
Mons Peak had good conditions on the ascent which held together both
up and down. Mons is a very fine peak. We turned around after the
first summit of Cambrai as the ridge looked tedious with snow
mushrooms and we were concerned about snow below us for the return trip.
The traverse to Lyell hut over Division ridge took us about 7 hours,
a bit slow but again travel slower on the Lyell glacier. We turned
the final north step on Division ridge on some steep scree on the
west side. The step can be down climbed for about 30 feet but the
scree was better for our group.
Christian had a good crust which quickly broke down by about 0830. We
got down to glacier with about an hour to spare.( no previous
sluffing on the face of Christian). It was breakable crust on the
south face. The shrund was well filled in. We just got to the first
small bump on top as the true summit 40 feet away had a cornice which
was cleaving and was very steep on both sides. As well we wanted to
get off quickly.
The following day for Lyell 2 the temp at 0400 was +3 so soft all the
way over. A bit of a crust at the 2-3 col which was breakable but put
on crampons. The Lyell 1 ridge was corniced and with conditions it
would have been awful travelling with breakable crust on mushy
underlying snow. We headed down by 0900. Lots of sluffing on the east
faces by 1000am and deeper penetrations going back to hut.
The route up Lyell 3 is certainly steeper and a bit more broken than
it was in 2004.
Overall I would certainly say there is much more snow above 10,000
feet than would be expected for this time of year. Looking at some
photos and videos from both 2004 and 1998 from this area, things were
much drier both these times. The travel was much slower this week
because of the lack of freezing and deeper snowpack.
This is a spectacular area and the huts give great access to the
peaks. I would say the Lyell hut probably has the best view from any
hut I have been to.
Peter Amann
Mountain Guide
Peter Amann
pamann@xxxxxxxxxxxx
mons to lyell hut.jpg
Description: JPEG image
Mons Glacier from lyell hut.jpg
Description: JPEG image
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