[MCR] Mt Tsar Area, July 30- August 13, 2011

Got back from the Mt Tsar area yesterday after spending two weeks climbing half a dozen smaller peaks as well as Mt. Tsar with a fellow named Art Maki who is still going strong at 80 years old.  I hope I can do the same at that point in life.

 

Generally good weather with lots of afternoon thundershowers passing through.  Good travel conditions below 2800m.  Above this travel was more dependent on the quality of the freeze with post-holing from boot-top to knee-deep when the crust breaks down.  In keeping with other areas nearby the cornices remain a big concern for this time of the year and there is still concern for surface snow sluffing late in the day on steep terrain.  Great coverage continues to exist on the glaciers and crevasses and bergschrunds remain well covered in most areas.  Alpine rock in the area is finally coming into shape on solar aspects, North aspects are still holding a lot of snow above 2800m.  Generally good conditions for climbing in the area whenever the overnight freezes are strong.

 

Cheers, Conrad Janzen
ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide
www.banffmountainguides.com

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