[MCR] Bugaboos and Lake Louise area, August 20-29

The following are some observations compiled from the ACMG assistant alpine guide exam:

 

Overall, early season conditions prevailed in all areas with snow amounts being more similar to normal levels for early July. 

 

Weather:

Couldn't ask for better weather this week. A high pressure system dominated giving clear skies with light winds.  Daytime highs were in the low twenties with lows in the single digits, and better freezes near the end of the week.

 

Bugaboos, August 20-23:

Routes climbed were the Kain route on Bugaboo, the East Ridge of Marmolada, and the South Ridge of Brenta Spire.

 

Conditions:

Dry rock and excellent snow travel conditions.  Winter snow still covers scree/ boulders on many approaches making for easier travel.  Supportive summer snowpack with good step kicking potential.

 

Hazards:

• The bergschrund on the Bugaboo-Snowpatch col was half filled in on the climbers right side, but starting to open up on the climbers left side, where the main uptrack and the rappel routes are. 
• Minimal rockfall was observed. 
• Good coverage on the glaciers, but crevasses are starting to show up. 

 

Lake Louise, August 24-28:

Routes climbed were: East Ridge of Unnamed, N. and S. Victoria, Aberdeen, West Ridge of Fay, Mt. Little, Castle Mountain - Brewers and Eisenhower Tower, and the Kain route on Mt. Louis.

 

Conditions:

Rock routes were dry and in good shape.  Mixed routes were in early season shape with plenty of loose rock from the winter still teetering on many ledges. Of particular note, the descent off Aberdeen to Paradise valley was in good shape with multiple snow patches allowing for easier travel than normal.  Generally, excellent snow travel in the mornings, deteriorating with daytime warming in the afternoons.

 

Hazards:

• The snow cover is thinning on glaciers and ice faces, resulting in weakening crevasse bridges, especially in the afternoons. 
• Rockfall is a big concern with warming temperatures in the afternoon melting out rocks embedded in the ice/snow (particularly on the Aberdeen ice tongue, and Unnamed glacier descent)
• Many large cornices are still present, and hanging precariously over popular routes (N. Victoria, and Mt. Fay NF routes).

Overall, a great week in the mountains!  Conditions will change quickly with the forecasted precipitation tonight. 

 

Cheers

 

Ian Jackson

 

ACMG Assistant Alpine Guide Candidate

 

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These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The 
ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in 
continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable 
nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information 
provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions 
Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.