I guided N Victoria-Collier-Unnamed today.
We found excellent conditions on the glacier approach to the
Vic-Collier col and on N Victoria. Snow from the last storm has gone
through a melt-freeze and made for mostly good travel.
The climb up Collier was in great shape and mostly dry. Conditions on
the traverse across to Unnamed were pretty snowy, which added both
interest and length to the day -- a bit tedious but very aesthetic.
We took a look at the normal route on Unnamed but it was snowy and
uninviting so we descended the Popes-Unnamed gully. It also is in
excellent condition right now and has undergone an avalanche cycle
since the storm and had refroze by the time we entered it at around
5pm. We added a fifth piton to the already pretty decent-looking
anchor :)
Death Trap, Lefroy W face and Aberdeen all looking good. A fair bit of
sloughing on solar aspects starting early in the afternoon.
Beautiful clear day today, lots of cold snow still on high shaded
aspects, certainly felt like autumn.
Tom
--
Tom Wolfe
Mountain Guide ACMG/IFMGA
Canmore, AB
_______________________________________________
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