[MCR] Twisted Sister, Stewart Creek

Spent the day guiding 'Twisted Sister' in Stewart Creek.  The approach is in great condition with almost no snow.  No avy hazard on the climb at this point either but that could change quickly.

 

My guest said “I wanna rock” so we used the normal 5.7 pitch to get started after discussing the thin WI3R pitch to the right and deciding that “we’re not gonna take it” due to the detached and sublimating ice for the first ten meters…but a delicate touch might still make it work.

 

The rest of the route is in and has just enough ice to climb comfortably but not enough to put in a lot of protection.  Mostly a few 10cm and 13cm screws until the last pitch which started out hollow but improved quickly and finished nice and fat.

 

We used Metolius cams from #2-6, a couple medium nuts and a few pitons for the rock pitch and anchors. 

 

We also cleaned a pin anchor on the third pitch with a light tap and a moderate pull so I think it is worth being a little suspicious of the old fixed gear on the route. 

 

A long walk but a fun day out! 

 

Cheers, Conrad Janzen
ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide
www.banffmountainguides.com

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