[MCR] Coire Dubh Integral

I guided an ascent of Coire Dubh Integral yesterday, Dec 13th. The first pitch is formed well offering several green lines that take screws. It is not huge yet, but is still getting water and should fill out to climber’s left in time. All the other ice pitches are formed well.

There was fresh wind slabs on the route, but all well supported, I felt, presenting low consequence if they did fail. I happily trod up the edges of some and through the middle of others.

A party was on the first rock pitch of the normal Coire Dubh Integral so we climbed two pitches of Doors of Perception then traversed to the 5.2 pockets pitch. The snow climbing in the gully above was a tad tedious with lots of knee deep postholes.

We traversed Loder Peak and descended the ridgeline finishing the last half hour by headlamp.

Happy trails,

Barry Blanchard

Mountain Guide

www.barryblanchard.ca

www.yamnuska.com

Climbers on Coire Dubh Integral route normal.

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