Climbed the Fang and the Fist in the Ghost on saturday the 31st. Good
challenging driving for a moderate clearance 4x4 on marked trail to Malamute
valley. Lots of water to 30cm deep- brakes still freezing up today. Route is in
good shape, first 5 m's is the crux with hooking chandeliers and hard to
protect until you reach the 1st ledge. Good stout grade 4/5 climbing on all
three steep sections and the hooking gets more secure after that first bit. We
got off in 3 rope stretching rappels with one 70m rope.
No avalanche hazard at present on the route but walking off looked like it
might involve crossing some nasty drifts/windslabs with death-consequence rides
Interestingly, packrats had completely eaten the exposed part of the abalokovs
at the top. Wasn't sure what had happened till I noticed the rat raisins around
the tat. Never seen that before, the damage should be obvious but it is just
another reason to back up abalokovs with more abalokovs.
Happy New Year,
Larry Stanier
ACMG Mountain Guide
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The
ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in
continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable
nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information
provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions
Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
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