Quick Update on Snowline and Moonlight.
Both are well hooked out up to the the big ledge at about 65m. or so with good pro the whole way on both. Both routes were quite brittle above the 65m. mark, and producing a fair amount of big icefall as a result, where the routes were less traveled. Good options on both routes though for protected belays. Looked like some fun steep climbing to finish off Moonlight to the trees at the top. Dry ice the whole way.
Seems more often than not the exit bulges on both these routes seem to hold a lot of tension in the ice, and are often prone to big plates releasing. They certainly were yesterday. By standing directly below people climbing above (while waiting at the base), or belaying in the open directly below your leader, climbers will definitely expose themselves to that icefall.
Definitely a few close calls on that front yesterday.
Play safe out there!
Mike Trehearne
Alpine Guide / Assistant Ski Guide
mike@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx