March 4th I guided in Johnston Canyon. Two pillars, left and right, have formed
in the centre area. We climbed the left hand one and it has decent protection
and lots to stand on and chimney in, a good route. Another party climbed the
right hand pillar, which is smaller and fresher, and reported no "gonging"
-something I had been concerned about looking at it. The right hand pillar was
then top roped by a second team.
March 5th we plowed a track into Moonlight Falls. 25 cms of snow in the parking
lot in the morning. The climb was challenging with brittle ice camouflaged by
snow. Hard to keep your hands warm, both of my guests suffered the screaming
barfies. Four additional parties showed up below us and when we came down
parties were on both Cah Cah (Caw Caw?) -the freshly bolted line on the left
side of Moonlight, and on Too Low for Zero (also newly bolted). Both these
lines are now alternatives to the classic ice lines.
Happy trails,
Barry Blanchard
Mountain Guide
www.barryblanchard.ca
www.yamnuska.com
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The
ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in
continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable
nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information
provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions
Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
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