Hi all,
I just returned form guiding a small group up Mount Logan via the King Trench. Due
to high winds above 5000m, cold temperatures and very short weather windows, we
did not summit. We made it as high as Prospector col (5500m).
The King Trench was in good conditions this year. The winter
snow coverage on the glaciers was a bit thin below 4000m; ranging from 80-200cm.
Above 4000m there was upward of 250cm in protected areas. Due to unsettled cool
spring weather, the snowpack felt more like early spring up there. This made for some deep trail breaking at
time but provided very good powder skiing even on southerly aspects throughout
the expedition. A very stiff (10-15cm thick) wind layer was found down 30-40cm
in the snowpack below 4000m. This layer did not react to stability tests and made
for stronger crevasse bridges below that elevation. However, it was difficult
to dig down for things like the cooking shelter, a sturdy snow saw was
essential.
On route, most crevasses were reasonably well covered and
bridges felt firm with no signs of weakening as of yet. The cruxy broken
section just above King col (near 4250m) presented with only one straightforward
route option through imposing ice towers. This section felt natural but could
become more contrive and unlikely as the glacier continues to change overtime. A route finding challenge through a maze of
crevasses was encountered at 4700m, just below the football field camp. After a
bit of exploring, an easy way found through this section by ascending more
climber’s right (closer to the south face of Logan) to gained the football
field from the East. The rest of the way to Prospector col was straightforward.
Above 5300m, the surface snow was variable and heavily sculpted by the wind (at
time bulletproof). Ski crampons were very useful to gain the col.
We flew in and out from Chitna, Alaska with pilot Paul Claus
in a single turbo Otter. Accessing the
mountain from the West is a very good option, there are rarely any prolong delays
when flying-in from that side. They can take 8 people at the time with all the
equipment in one load with this plane. The main disadvantage is that the pilot can only drop you on the Yukon/Alaska border, this adds 9km across flat glacier to the mount Logan base camp. See http://www.ultimathulelodge.com/for
more info.
I think it’s time for some rock climbing now! Perhaps some
well-timed corn skiing in southern B.C. too. At any rate, enjoy this beautiful transition
into summer…
Cheers,
David Lussier
ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide
www.summitmountainguides.com
