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ACMG Mountain Conditions Report Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued June 14th, 2012
Things are looking soggy for the weekend. Snow line is still LOW in most of the Rockies and Columbia mountains.
For example, at Lake O'Hara(2000m) there is still a rough average of 50cm of snow on the ground. Windswept south and west aspects are slowly melting out but in the forest, in the shade and on lee slopes along both Divides it safe to say that snowline is between 1500 and 2000m.
We have had limited reports from the alpine due to the access, the weather and the time of year. I just finished 3 days at Lake O'Hara climbing snow and rock on mostly west and south faces between 2000 and 2700m. Generally reasonable travelling with some overnight recovery of snowpack strength and a reasonably good freeze this morning. Two snow profiles and lots of postholing around that elevation showed that the heat has gone right to the ground and it is a real spring snowpack. Saw several BIG wet loose snow avalanches coming out of steep terrain. One avalanche that started with a cornice failure on Mt Schaeffer ran 600m, over the All Souls Trail and to the shore of Mary Lake.
At higher elevations I have my doubts that it is a spring snowpack. A cycle of big spring slides from higher elevations is still in our future if the heat ever gets turned on!!!
Slopes that have previously avalanched have a generally much stronger snowpack and offer better travelling if soft snow is the issue. Of course the gullies that have slid and runnels formed by wet slides make great ramps for focusing rockfall. So as usual, timing is everything. I had 3 satisfying days of mountaineering at O'Hara but it was all very "eyes wide open" and it wouldn't have taken much more heat or rain to trigger avalanches and rockfall and have me running for the valley bottom.
Cragging is obviously a good idea IF the forecast is wrong and the sun comes out. Be aware that crags in the Rockies and Columbias with lots of dirt, bush etc above them may be weeping and slow to dry.
What else? The rivers and creeks are running high and fast and the big beasts are wandering around down low. Saw roadside grizzlies around Lake Louise twice recently and a grizzly may have been hassling a moose at "Shaketown" in Revelstoke this morning. That is a scary duo!
Sharpen your mountaineering tools, fix those little holes in your pack and gaiters and get fit and fed for some vague day in the future. Early morning spring alpine climbing could get good in a hurry if the stars align.
For now, please don't shoot the messenger!
Larry Stanier
ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide
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These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted
them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors,
omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time
and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain.
Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety.
Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning
trips or making decisions in the field. Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
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_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The
ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in
continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable
nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information
provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions
Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
See http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
See http://informalex.org/subscribe.shtml/unsubscribe to remove your name from
this list.
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