[MCR] June 1; Castle Mountain Eisenhower tower & Bow Valley multi-pitch conditions

Greetings,

I climbed Eisenhower tower on Castle Mountain with two guests Friday June 1st. There is still snow on the approach but we were able to do most of it with approach shoes, then switching to boots for the last of the forested slopes (gaiters a good idea). The route itself is dry and was very pleasant. Snow is found only in the gullies, large ledges and summit "snow" slope. The descent however is more challenging than usual as there is no choice but to rappel in the upper gully which is filled with steep slippery snow (ice axe would be useful!) requiring a step kicking down climb to rejoin the stations/rappels of the head wall ascent route. One can however easily make secure bucket steps.




As well over the last week I have climbed on Yamnuska, Kid Goat and EEOR with guests. We climbed mainly face routes (Red Shirt, Twilight Zone, Geriatric), and found surprisingly little in the way of loose rock I would expect to be generated from the recent torrential rains. Several routes on these cliffs do still have snow melting on them and are seeping, no doubt causing  rockfall. These are very visible and easy to avoid.






Eric Dumerac - Professional Mountain Guide

Mountain Skills Academy Owner/Operator
 

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