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ACMG Mountain Conditions Report Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued June 28, 2012
Current conditions in the alpine are still more like spring than summer, more like late May than late June. Snow depth is over 2m on the glaciers with little to no ice showing yet even in the Rockies, and winter snow is reaching down to 2000m in Rogers Pass and 2400m in the Rockies. The snowline from the recent storms was down to treeline.
This month's storms have brought widespread damage to trails and bridges, and watercourses have eroded significantly and created dangerously undercut, loose stream banks.
Earlier this week snow, cornice, and ice avalanches were reported up to size 3 on East aspects. The large cornice above the wind scoop below St. Nick failed, strangely, early on a cool day after an overnight freeze. A large (size 3) serac initiated avalanche occurred above Balfour High Col stepping down deeply into the winter snowpack and sweeping the routes used to access the col.
Rock routes in the front ranges are drying out quickly on south aspects, but gullies and ledges above 2000m on other aspects are still holding snow. Wet rock, seepage, and sandy/gritty climbing conditions have been reported.
Concerns/Hazards:
The forecast for the weekend is calling for mixed weather â?? cool, with a chance of scattered cloud and perhaps some stormy weather. It could turn out to be pretty good for alpine climbing with a clear night or two to freeze a crust.
Be aware of the early season hazards that still persist: Seeping rock, damaged trails and washed out bridges, cornice failures and avalanches with daytime heating, minimal crust recovery with warm and/or overcast nights, early breakdown of crust with heating on NE to S aspects, wet/snow covered rock down as far as treeline on sheltered aspects.
When planning your objective consider that approaches, descents, and gullies may have more snow than you expect for this time of year, have underlying ice patches, and may require ice axes, mountain boots or crampons.
Start very early -- we're only a week off the Solstice -- and be aware of the aspect dependent crusts and breakdown of the crusts. Move quickly and be aware of exposure to gullies, snow covered rock overhead, and cornices.
Remember we're into thunderstorm season now â?? keep an eye out for building clouds and get out of harmâ??s way early in the day.
Watch for ticks and bring the bear spray.
Travel advisory:
Keeping in mind the caveats described above, front rage low elevation and south aspect alpine rock should be in great shape. In the main ranges, Rogers Pass, Bugaboos cool clear nights could make for decent refreezes and good travel on alpine snow and ice routes.
Generally speaking itâ??s still too early for alpine rock in the big mountains except on steep, clean, exposed solar aspects.
Regards,
Tom Wolfe
ACMG Mountain Guide
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These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted
them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors,
omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time
and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain.
Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety.
Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning
trips or making decisions in the field. Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
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_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The
ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in
continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable
nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information
provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions
Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
See http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
See http://informalex.org/subscribe.shtml/unsubscribe to remove your name from
this list.
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