I guided an ascent of the SE ridge of Mt Wilcox on June 28th. Still lots of
snow up there with several long fall-away snow slopes that I advise having an
ice axe to cross, and the ability to self arrest with the ice axe. It will be
awhile before the ridge is dry enough to be in "scramble" shape.
Yesterday, June 29th, I guided an ascent of the NE Buttress of Mt Kidd. First
time on that route for me and we found it to be a challenging adventure trad
climb for the grade, and from cool hands and feet on the first couple of
pitches. Overall the climb feels a lot like the N Ridge of EEOR with not as
good rock quality and only one in situ piton and one bolt en route. If I were
going back I'd bring 6 pitons rather than just 3, as I did yesterday. Research
the Mt Kidd Lookout trail info before going. From the top of the Buttress we
were able to walk down the backslopes down to ribbon creek. A refreshing thigh
deep creek fording got us onto the Ribbon Creek trail systems which are well
signed and easy to follow back to the car.
Happy trails,
Barry Blanchard
Mountain Guide
www.barryblanchard.ca
www.yamnuska.com
_______________________________________________
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