[MCR] Rockies, Wilcox Peak, NE Buttress Mt Kidd

Subject: [MCR] Rockies, Wilcox Peak, NE Buttress Mt Kidd
Date: Sat, 30 Jun 2012 11:15:10 -0600
I guided an ascent of the SE ridge of Mt Wilcox on June 28th. Still lots of 
snow up there with several long fall-away snow slopes that I advise having an 
ice axe to cross, and the ability to self arrest with the ice axe. It will be 
awhile before the ridge is dry enough to be in "scramble" shape.

Yesterday, June 29th, I guided an ascent of the NE Buttress of Mt Kidd. First 
time on that route for me and we found it to be a challenging adventure trad 
climb for the grade, and from cool hands and feet on the first couple of 
pitches. Overall the climb feels a lot like the N Ridge of EEOR with not as 
good rock quality and only one in situ piton and one bolt en route. If I were 
going back I'd bring 6 pitons rather than just 3, as I did yesterday. Research 
the Mt Kidd Lookout trail info before going. From the top of the Buttress we 
were able to walk down the backslopes down to ribbon creek. A refreshing thigh 
deep creek fording got us onto the Ribbon Creek trail systems which are well 
signed and easy to follow back to the car.

Happy trails,

Barry Blanchard
Mountain Guide
www.barryblanchard.ca
www.yamnuska.com




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