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ACMG Mountain Conditions Report Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued July 5, 2012
Weather:
The June Monsoon is over and summer is finally here! At least in terms of temperature, solar effect and UV's, that is. The coming week throughout SW BC and Alberta is going to be decidedly summerlike, temperatures are forecast to climb into the 30's and sunshine will be the order for the day - at least that is what the Weatherman is saying.
Conditions:
Currently, other than the front ranges, travel conditions are not quite as summery as the weather. Snow lingers in shady valley bottom trails and is still well established in the upper treeline on all but extreme southerly aspects. This is not necessarily a bad thing as long as you are prepared to deal with it (i.e lots of snow seal on your boots and gaiters, as well as crampons/iceaxe where appropriate), and can definitely make some of your ascents/descents more knee friendly.
Other issues are ongoing high water levels. Depending on time of day, expect fluctuation in creek flows due to the freeze thaw that we may see under the forecasted clear skies - in other words, that boulder hop that worked in the morning may not be so great in the afternoon.
Glacier travel is benefitting from the late melt off, with limited exposed ice and reasonable crevasse bridging, and hopefully there will be some reasonable overnight freezes to reduce foot penetration. Please remember that this is not an excuse to travel unroped on the glaciers - it is the holes you can't see that get you!
Alpine Rock is starting to come along and people have already been hitting Castle Mtn. routes in the Rockies, and Mt. MacDonald/ Mt. Tupper in Rogers Pass. In the Bugaboos some folks have been taking advantage of the lack of crowds and working routes on the steep face of the Tom Eagan Memorial wall. But most Alpine rock, especially non-solar aspects is still in the mixed category. Even if you manage to find a dry alpine rock route, expect to have to manage some snow on your approach or descents.
Hazards:
To me the biggest thing is that this will be the first real warmup since winter, especially in the high Alpine. That, coupled with recent reports of ongoing slab avalanche activity (with crown depths of 1 to 2 meters), means a heads up attitude and a focus on timing and location (early starts and attention to overhead slopes/cornices).
Last winters deep instabilities (especially the basal weaknesses in the Rockies) could easily reawaken over the next several days, and there are innumerable monstrous cornices perched along most major Alpine ridgecrests. So in the famous words of the Friendly Giant - "Look Up - Waaaay Up!".
That said, the positive side of things is that the clear overnight skies may allow some reasonable overnight freezes(especially the next couple of days), making for quick travel and allowing for some fun alpine objectives to be completed before things start to fall apart. Just set your alarm clock real early, and don't hit the snooze button!
Cheers,
Scott Davis
ACMG Mountain Guide
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These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted
them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors,
omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time
and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain.
Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety.
Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning
trips or making decisions in the field. Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
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_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The
ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in
continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable
nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information
provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions
Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
See http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
See http://informalex.org/subscribe.shtml/unsubscribe to remove your name from
this list.
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