[MCR] Bugaboo conditions

Kirsten Knechtel and I just spent 5 bluebird days in the Bugaboos with a group of 8.  Walking in on the 4th, the hut was surrounded by snow, and the generator was not even close to working. The mountains looked very snowy, many cornices still laced the ridge lines and the trail to Applebee was all in snow. Over the 5 days, we were blessed with sunny weather and very few people in the area, and watched the area turn from winter to summer conditions, literally over night!

Glaciers are still well covered, up to 250cm plus w probing, but snow recovery overnight was minimal to zero, with 15-30cm of top snow being wet grains. This led to sloppy, knee deep snow conditions during the day on solar aspects of moderate slopes on the glacier and an early start for steeper slopes like the Bugaboo-Snowpatch col. There were no signs of deeper slab releases but we observed numerous point releases on steep solar faces. 
The spires really cleared up over our time there, and most climbs on all aspects of Snowpatch (other then maybe the Snowpatch route, which shed some sloughing avalanches while we were there), looked good, same with Crescent Towers.  People climbed the NE Ridge of Bugaboo (reporting ice and snow in the cracks), and the Kain route had a bunch of snow on the start but nothing that would stop you getting to the ridge. A big cornice still lies on this ridge however and threatens the Bugaboo-Snowpatch col, which people should stay aware of! Pigeon still had a bunch of snow on the West Ridge. Rumor had it that people were in East Creek Basin, but we didn't see any tracks leading down the col, nor returning from the Howsers.  The Howsers still looked very snowy with cornices threatening the descent.

The access road is in moderate shape and the hut still does not have power.  The custodian will not be aware of hut reservations made before you go, so bring your paperwork. Applebee was still snow covered and water was minimal.

Despite the late summer, the Bugaboos are ready to go for most steeper rock lines, with a heads up on over head hazards and snowy ridges. Snow travel is great with a bit of a freeze, but sloppy and deep if this doesn't happen.

Sar

 

Sarah Hueniken
ACMG Alpine Guide
www.sarahhueniken.com

 

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