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Hello,
I spent July 13 and 14 guiding on Castle Mountain with guest Nik Seetharaman. Of note on Eisenhower Tower the bolt is still missing from the first anchor off the Dragon's back but you can easily make it to the second anchor if you have a few long runners to reduce rope drag and a 60 meter rope. It is possible to rappel from this second anchor to within 10m of the Dragon's back if you want to avoid the single bolt rappel and are comfortable with the down climbing. There was still a few snow patches traversing to the hut and the descent gully from Brewer's was still holding snow. There is no shortage of water near the hut and still 5 bottles of propane. Bring the bug spray...the mosquitoes are horrendous!
We finished our trip (July 15-17) in the Neil Colgan area. Passing Barry Blanchard on our way up the Perren approach we were able to make it to the hut just before it began heavily raining. On the 16th we were able to climb Mt Perren and Mt Little and on the 17th we climbed the West Ridge of Mt Fay. Surprisingly the snow conditions were very good. The snow on the glaciers was sun cupped and supportive and the steeper snow provided excellent steps. The West Ridge is in good shape with little snow on it after the initial slope.
We observed a few loose snow avalanches in the afternoons off of high alpine South and East faces (Mt Temple and Mt Deltaform) but none in the Neil Colgan area.
Enjoy!
Jesse de Montigny
ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide
Yamnuska Mountain Adventures
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