[MCR] North peak of Mt. Victoria

We climbed the route yesterday morning and found pretty good conditions despite the lack of an overnight freeze. 

The glacier is well covered and travel is straightforward however this will change quickly with the next few days of hot weather.  The big hazards here are crevasse bridges losing strength and rock fall from the gullies off of Mt. Collier.  There are still some large cornices hanging over the North col but the bergschrund is easily passable in many locations and about 1/3 of the black band is still snow covered.

Once on the upper ridge we chose to bypass the rock step to the right on good snow/ice but we rappelled over it from fixed anchors on the way down.  Ice is starting to show on the North face.  

An early start was the key for us as we were on top just before 9 and off of the glacier by 11.

Have fun!

Mike Stuart

ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide

CanadianAlpineGuides.com

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