[MCR] Mount Assiniboine July 29 to Aug 1

Flew out of Mt Assiniboine this morning after 4 days in the area.

Approached to the Hind hut from the Magog Lk. side via the snow couloir, right of the Gmoser highway (as most parties this season). There are deep moats on the sides with a lot of rushing water. 3 'shruds are starting to show in the upper third. Kicked steps the whole way (no crampons). Belayed 2 x 50m near the steepest upper portion. The couloir was still in shape this am and allowed for 2 x 110m lowers to lower angle at bottom. Ideal for vertical mid-clip picket use. 

Climbed Mt Strom on our first day. Beautiful arching snow arrêt lead almost from hut to summit.  

Conditions on the north ridge of Assiniboine were excellent. Any snow/ice is easily avoided. Crampons were not used on route however I did chop a few steps near the start of the red band. The summit is also nearly free of snow until the summit cairn. Mixed weather with some rain and hail but no snow during our time.

John Freeman
ACMG – Alpine Guide

www.johnfreemanguide.com

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