Up to Abbot pass on wednesday the 1st. Trail ok but some medium size rockslides
this spring have left some nasty perched convex talus piles in inconvenient
places. Be very wary in the convex talus as some of it seems to want to move
with a light trigger.
Climbed the lower part of SE ridge of Victoria for a warmup that afternoon(the
1st) and it was in great shape to the black band. Woke up to driving slush,
zero vis and the feel of an impending thunderstorm at 430 am so we went back to
bed. Climbed down low around wiwaxy in the midmorning and it was fine. 2 hard
fast thunderstorms this afternoon but as of now(745pm) there is no new snow
visible almost to the top of Huber(3350+m).
Ice is growing fast on some faces like glacier pk North face but Hungabee still
needs to shed more snow.
Fx looks very promising and conditions are good when the thunderstorms and the
rocks stop rolling through.
Larry Stanier
ACMG Mountain Guide
laristan@xxxxxxxxx
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