Just back from a few days in Little Yoho ~
President Mtn. Climbed this yesterday (4th). The major avalanche Ken Belanger
reported off the President has left scattered Smart cart size blocks across the
trough leading
to President col. Melting debris remains can be seen 1/3 of the way down from
the col. This thing was big and ripped to bedrock, immediately lookers right of
the col. A serious
cantilevered remnant ice block (mini van) still threatens the schrund crossing
to gain the col, and there is little root left on the remaining overhanging
cornice. Thankfully at the moment the schrund is widely bridged and a
relatively safe arcing line can be taken in to gain the schrund crossing from
the Vice Pres side. A doddle from the col to the summit. Only minor snow patches
which can be avoided on the many cow trails being beaten in.
Mt. McArthur Climbed this this morning. 5:30 am temps + 6 deg. which made for
a cramponless ascent, with good step-kicking throughout.. Ice in the runnels
creating good re-bar. Sections of the McArthur cornice are failing, similarly
leaving good sized blocks well down onto the usual approach line. On the summit
at 10:30 we witnessed a huge ice and rock release off the unnamed NW outlier.
Generally an easterly aspect. The sun and sustained warm diurnal conditions are
having their affect on peaks in this area. Yet crevasses en route still well
bridged; major concern being the summit schrund, forcing a n'ly detour around
this to gain the summit.
No snow bridges left on Cat's Ears creek whatsoever. Best creek crossing is at
the braided stream (bigger cairns here now) on the flats below the McArthur
headwall waterfall.
Mice in the hut as usual. Guard your food bag.
Murray Toft
MG
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