[MCR] Bugaboos, August 10-13, 2012

Spent the last three days on Bugaboo, Snowpatch and Pigeon Spires where conditions are in excellent shape for most acsents.

Still snow on all the approaches and easy travel, though the snow is thinning fast. Crampons needed on the cool mornings.

Loose rock starting to melt out on top of the Bugaboo-Snowpatch Col and two shrunds to navigate around on your way up. Still good bucket steps this morning.

Access up the Bugaboo Glacier to the Pigeon-Howser Col is very simple if you stay climbers left of the Nunatuk in the centre of the glacier. The glacier is still snow covered to its toe.

The Kraus-Mcarthy descent off Snowpatch is fine with a 70m rope but requires some extra prussiks to reach the fourth station if you have a 60m. Some nuts/hangers for the bolt studs at the 27m mark would also fix this.

Enjoy the great weather and perfect conditions!

Cheers, Conrad Janzen
IFMGA Mountain Guide
www.banffmountainguides.com

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