[MCR] Canal Flats: Easy Honey multi-pitch - loose block and approach beta

Greetings,

I was guiding in the Radium/Canal Flats and did the multi-pitch route Easy Honey (bolted 5 pitch route) on Mt. Sabine.  Descriptions are very vague as to how to get to the route (rappelling in), as well there is a dangerous loose block with a bolt in it. 

Extra approach beta rappelling from the top:  The "parking" noted in the mountainelectric.ca is actually only a pullout just in front of a well used quad trail. The approach takes more like 30-45 minutes. At the end of the trail one is on top of a flat plateau on top of Mt. Sabine with the Asimov wall directly below. Pick up a very faint trail on the left and follow more very faint trails to the cliffs edge where the rap route is eventually found. Plan to take time looking for the rap route. 

Loose block: On the 2nd pitch (5.10b) 4th bolt from the station, a bolt has been placed in a giant loose block slowly detaching from the cliff. As this block erodes, the puzzle pieces holding it in place are falling out, the block now sounds hollow, if it failed, say from a leader fall, it would be catastrophic. If anyone knows the first ascentionists please let them know as this poses a safety concern. 

Eric Dumerac - Professional Mountain Guide

Mountain Skills Academy Owner/Operator
 

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