Conditions on Wedge have changed since the last report due to the very warm
temperatures last week. The lower glacier is snow free to 6700' although the
neve above this elevation was firmly frozen allowing for fast travel. Bypassing
the icefall is now bullet proof ice for 100m as is the slope leading to the
saddle on the ridge. The north arete is still snowy but thin. There is again
more ice leading to the final rockband or the icey exit gulley. We climbed the
ice although some parties are going to the rocks however that option looks very
loose. We descended the route although used the ridge toward the Mt Weart col
to avoid the ice under the Wedgemont icefall.
Bring screws for the route.
Tim Pochay
IFMGA Guide
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The
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continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable
nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information
provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions
Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
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