[MCR] Rockies, the Silverhorn and Boundary Peak

Subject: [MCR] Rockies, the Silverhorn and Boundary Peak
Date: Fri, 24 Aug 2012 13:46:49 -0600
I guided in the Columbia Icefields August 20-24. On the 21st we made an ascent 
of Boundary Peak via the North Glacier of Mt Athabasca accessing the glacier 
from the "middle station" (this an access located close to three small tarns 
and is where the wreckage of the outshouse avalanched in 2011 presently sits). 
This was a nice talus free point to gain the glacier, but does require about a 
100 feet of descent to get to. Travel on the glacier was excellent with the 
firn line lying at about 9500 feet. Boundary Peak from the Boundary/Athabasca 
Col was bone dry and a scramble.

August 23 we made an ascent of the Silverhorn which is not holding much snow, 
we belayed the whole horn off of ice screw anchors with one picket anchor to 
cross the schrund and a second one half way up. We descended the Ramp 
marvelling at the growing schrund overhead and the gaping seracs below. It is a 
time of change on the North Glacier.

Happy trails,

Barry Blanchard
Mountain Guide
www.barryblanchard.ca
www.yamnuska.com


image/jpg


The middle station with the outhouse wreckage visible between the tarns, summer 
2011




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